This airy, lovely and welcoming neighborhood respite likes to keep things low-maintenance. There’s no host or reservations accepted here, but the price point is agreeably lower than its fussier neighbors. The family that owns the restaurant has a solid hand in this all-day operation (don’t miss breakfast), and it’s designed to offer scrumptious food without breaking the bank.
At dinnertime, head to the intimate second-level dining space—done up in original details like tin ceilings—and try your hand at dishes like tender pork empanadas, laced with aji and the heavenly scent of garlic. The masa “gnocchi” is a real treat, with its knobs of dough tossed with braised beef, maitake mushrooms, cotija cheese, crispy crumbs and loads of herbs.
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