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Mamma mia! New York’s love affair with Kesté shows no sign of stopping. This kitchen begins with a puffy, blistered crust that’s perfectly salty and tangy, then tops it with ingredients like roasted butternut squash purée, smoked mozzarella and basil. And while its ingredients seem to have taken a small hit in recent years, that crust is still on point.

Co-owner Roberto Caporuscio presides over the American chapter of Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, and his daughter, Giorgia, oversees the in-house pizza making operations. Diners can choose from more than 22 pizzas (including a few gluten-free options), a roster of calzoni and nightly pie specials. The restaurant is teeny-tiny, but diners are encouraged to linger, in true Italian style.