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The cuisine describes itself as “New Korean,” which means it does lean westwards quite considerably; indeed, some of the wonderful sauces turned out of this versatile kitchen wouldn’t be out of place at a grand French table. But what is most impressive here is that the Korean elements of the dishes seem to raise them to another level. Bibimbap composed with gochujang, crispy quinoa and tender Wagyu beef tartare will live long in the memory; while the branzino served simply with white kimchi shows that this is also a kitchen with the utmost confidence in the quality of its ingredients.

This is cooking that is original, impeccably executed and enormously satisfying. It’s the sort of food that makes you involuntarily nod to yourself while you’re eating.

The space is cool, crisp and elegant; the service team sharp, keen and organized. The impressive acreage could make the dining room unwieldy, but it’s divided up into smaller sections so you never feel like you’re rattling around. It also helps that it’s decorated in a sensual and sophisticated way—Jungsik is an immeasurably good looking restaurant, run with the professionalism that its cooking demands.