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There is a finely tuned harmony to dining at such classic New York restaurants as this one. The Italian menu is familiar and unpretentious, the kitchen is adept and ingredients are superb. But, what truly sets it apart is an ability to serve exactly what you crave without seeming trite or predictable. Even the look is a perfectly conjured mix of warm neutrals, with a sleek yet informal Northern Italian style and impeccably timed servers.

Start with the traditional antipasto and then proceed to one of the daily specials like veal Milanese or a lavish dish of garganelli with mushrooms and black truffles. When the dessert cart rolls around, expect an array of excellent house-made sweets like pristine berries under whisked-to-order zabaglione.