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The little menu at this neighborhood fixture proves that quality trumps size. Lavagna’s kitchen is snug, but still manages to make ample use of a wood-burning oven to bake everything from delicate pizzette to whole roasted fish. Pastas are always a treat, while other tasty options may include pan-fried smoked scamorza paired with a roasted red pepper-topped crostini, juicy rack of lamb or a slice of spot-on crostata filled with seasonal fruit and dressed with caramel sauce.

Framed mirrors, a pressed-tin ceiling and candlelight produce a mood that is almost as warm as the genuinely gracious service, which ensures that regulars receive the royal treatment. That said, everyone who steps through these doors will feel welcome and well taken care of.