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Don’t let the sunny, easygoing vibe at Oxomoco fool you. This is a serious restaurant, capable of great magic when cooking in its wood-fired oven. The attractive interior feels like a resort, with a long bar, giant skylight to maximize the natural light of such a narrow space, and outdoor patio. The room is lively and packed but always conducive to conversations.

Tacos may be the main draw, especially when their delightful tortillas are piled with superb lamb barbacoa or soft-shell crab. However, this kitchen doesn’t stick to one dish or even area of Mexico. Instead, it reaches widely across myriad regions, always balancing abundance with fresh and vibrant flavors. The menu entices with its tempting large and small items, including tropical hamachi agua chile or the tlayuda crafted from smoky corn on a crisp shell. Other highlights include the brined, fried and smoked “giant chicken. "

Apprised diners know never to pass up on such ace plates as the clever and totally original hoja santa curd, accompanied by roasted strawberries, raspberry granita and finished with spicy olive oil. The three-tiered tres leches cake is a savory and none-too-sweet delicacy, enriched with grilled peaches.