An inn has stood here since 1642 and The Sportsman’s reputation still brings diners from across the country to this windswept spot by the sea wall. The Thames Estuary provides wonderfully fresh fish and oysters, and the adjacent marshes, woods and soils provide meat, game and vegetables. The daily changing 5 course menu is displayed on blackboards next to the bar and, while the place has a comfortingly traditional feel, the dishes mix old favourites with newer ideas. Cooking is assured and satisfying, with seamless flavour combinations and an understated level of complexity.