After launching the careers of numerous renowned chefs—including Jonathan Waxman, Nancy Silverton and Sang Yoon—Michael’s has earned the right to be considered an icon. The dining room is a nostalgic and transporting oasis, while the ambitious chef breathes new life into the kitchen. The cooking succeeds in creatively blending unique ingredients, as seen in the petite quail marinated with turmeric and coconut milk, then grilled for smoky-sweet flavor. A side of branzino is cooked to tender exactness beneath a shatteringly crisp skin and accompanied by black butter sabayon. Local produce from the nearby Santa Monica farmers market appears on many plates.