A stone’s throw from the 580 but seemingly a world apart, this handsome locale—ensconced in the arbored suburban quietude of San Leandro—offers a uniquely pleasurable experience. Husband-and-wife co-owners Matthew Beavers and DanVy Vu opted to honor this fixture’s former life as a family-owned hat shop by keeping the name—and the well-crafted cocktails are also dubbed with nods to millinery.Chef Vu leads the kitchen, and her skillful contemporary combination of Vietnamese and Californian flavors is tantalizing. Crunchy seared rice cakes come packed with savory goodness, and meltingly tender braised oxtail over creamy grits have unusual depth. For a pillow-soft landing, finish with the signature lemon-ricotta zeppole, offered with a trio of luscious sauces.