Led by Laurent Magnin, the youthful team of L'Arcane has left 39 rue Lamarck to take up residence a little higher up, in the former premises of Chamarré Montmartre. With his dishes, the chef continues to show all the qualities that we already know he possesses. Technical prowess and flavours are a given – a perfect example being the delightful light pea mousse enhanced with yellow lemon zest and black lemon powder. The time spent here over a meal, whether in the form of a surprise menu or à la carte, is always time well spent. Finally, let's not forget the great wine list, which doesn't hesitate to push the boundaries.