This bright spot is brought to you by beverage director Yannick Benjamin, business partner George Gallego and Chef Oscar Lorenzzi. No wonder there's always a crowd in the intimate room, outfitted with exposed brick walls and an orderly kitchen in view—a rarity among other dining rooms—largely as it's been designed with accessibility in mind.A concise, clever wine list is poured into Austrian crystal to accompany a range of sophisticated dishes that bear a Peruvian accent. Sample the ceviche classico revealing diced pieces of wild striped bass in a leche de tigre with cancha and slivered red onion. Well-executed seafood is a strength, as in crispy skin salmon and tender octopus with black chimichurri, but the likes of arroz con pato are also impressive.