Since debuting in the 1980's, Spago has become an American institution that never seems to age. Its stucco exterior beckons diners into the iconic canteen that's elegant in that inescapably Californian kind of way; while a large, tented outdoor area affords enormous privacy. Servers display a certain graciousness as they cater to every whim of these elegant A-listers.The market-driven menu, as conceived by venerated Chef Ari Rosenson, is focused on the state's bounty with modern classics and perennial signatures. Imagine tuna tartare and smoked salmon pizza. Veal schnitzel, pounded flat and fried until golden, is another time-honored item that just so happens to be the recipe of the chef’s grandmother. Desserts, like the calamansi pavlova, also sparkle.